We come in a delicious array of skin tones that captivate--and help
protect us from the sun and keep us looking youthful longer. But despite
our great genes and protective melanin, environmental pollutants, free
radicals and the depleted ozone layer call for us to treat our skin
with attention. These ten mandates will help you attain and maintain
the skin of your dreams:
1. Know thy skin.
To determine skin's personality, try this simple at-home a Washington,
D,C. dermatologist: Wash your face, skip the moisturizer, wait an hour
and then take four pieces of transparent tape and place each one in
a different area of the thee: chin, forehead, cheeks and across the
nose. Gently pull off the tape and observe the sticky side. If it holds
flakes of skin, you have dry skin in that area. If it has a greasy print,
you have oily skin. Then take a closer look at your face. Do you see
a few pimples and perhaps a dark mark or two? You may have an allergic
reaction going on or minor acne. Do you frequently have a rash, redness
or irritation? Your skin is probably sensitive, but don't self-diagnose:
See a qualified dermatologist. Now that you know your skin type, read
on.
2. Cleanse faithfully.
When you wash your face, you remove makeup, pollution and debris, as
well as dead skin cells that are continuously shed and dull your complexion.
Most days, it's enough to cleanse twice--in the morning and before bed.
Always use a cleanser suited to your skin type. If yours is oily or
acne-prone, come clean with a liquid, gel formulation or soap that contains
bacteria-fighting and oil-cutting ingredients like triclosan and alpha-hydroxy
acids or salicylic acid. These gently slough the skin. Try Exuviance
Purifying Cleansing Gel, Pevonia Botanica Clarigel Exfoliating Cleanser
or Pond's Clear Solutions Deep Pore Foaming Cleanser. Dry skin calls
for a creamy cleanser that won't strip the skin of needed moisture.
We like L'Oreal Hydra Fresh Foaming Face Wash and Clarins Gentle Foaming
Cleanser for Dry. Skin. Combination skin has its own set of concerns:
It's usually oily in the T-zone and the cheeks are dry. "In many
cases, misuse of various skin-care products actually creates combination
skin," says New York dermatologist Barney Kenet, author of How
to Wash Your Face (Simon & Schuster). What to do? Make sure you
aren't aggressively cleaning with irritating ingredients, which can
stimulate oil production in the T-zone and dry the sides of the face.
If your skin is sensitive, go for tried-and-true cleansers that contain
no alcohol and don't overlather, like Dove Beauty Bar for Sensitive
Skin and Estee Lauder's Verite LightLotion Cleanser.
3. Moisturize religiously.
Skin of any type needs a barrier between it and the environment; the
elements can damage it and age us before our time. "We use moisturizer
to trap the natural moisture within the skin," says Burgess. What
to look for in a moisturizer? Dry skin requires ingredients like hyaluronic
acid and urea, commonly known as humectants, to draw moisture from the
air to the skin. If your skin is really dry, Kenet suggests this trick:
First dampen your face with warm water; pat dry and apply a generous
amount of moisturizer. Then cover your face with a slightly dampened
towel for a few minutes. Tissue off, rinse lightly with warm water and
pat dry. Doing this twice a week helps skin retain its natural moisture.
Creme De La Mer, Lancome HydraZen Skin Destressing Moisturizer and Clinique
Dramatically Different Moisturizer all provide exceptional benefits
for dry skin. Combination skin takes an oil-free moisturizer. Cheek
out Neutrogena Combination Skin Moisture Facial Moisturizer and Oil
of Olay Daily Complete UV Protection Moisture Lotion. For those with
oily and/or acne-prone skin, a light, off-free, noncomedogenic (doesn't
cause blemishes) moisturizer with sun protection will suffice. Reach
for Erno Laszlo's Antioxidant Moisture Complex SPF 15 and Avon's Clearskin
Oil Control Lotion. Sensitive skin is extremely fragile and prone to
such culprits as household cleaning agents and fragrance. Your strategy?
Virgil Hatcher, a New York City dermatologist and clinical assistant
professor at New York University School of Medicine, offers: advice:
* Go for simple formulations in cleansers and moisturizers. * Avoid
prolonged exposure to wind and sun. * Opt for compact makeup--liquid
formulations contain more preservatives. * Cut down on the detergent
you use and skip the fabric softeners. Such skin requires a moisturizer
that is lanolin-, alcohol- and fragrance-free. Hands down, the dermatologists
we spoke to all love Cetaphil Daily Facial Moisturizer With SPF 15.
4. Exfoliate to rejuvenate.
Exfoliation, the removal of dead skin cells, is a process that occurs
naturally. But as we get older, the slower the natural exfoliation process
gets, leaving us with dull skin tone. We use exfoliation products to
replenish softness, smoothness and glowing skin. Exfoliants come in
two forms: gentle scrubs that remove surface dead skin, and chemical
preparations that contain alpha-hydroxy acids. Regarding gentle scrubs,
New York City dermatologist Dr. Deborah Simmons says that those of us
with normal or combination skin can exfoliate once a week, while those
with oily skin should do it no more than twice a week.
Alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, lactic and citric acid, provide
a deeper exfoliation. "They can cause three or four layers of cells
to come off," explains Burgess. "They also trigger the skin
to replace those layers so that you have a faster turnover of epidermal
cells." But caution: Because AHA use thins the top layers of skin
and makes you more vulnerable to burning, you'll need sun-protection
products--moisturizer with an SPF or sunblock.
5. Don't worship the sun.
Burnished hues have more natural protection from the sun than lighter
skin, but that doesn't make any of us immune to sun damage or even skin
cancer. "In general, as the years go by we are seeing more melanoma
[skin cancer] in every ethnic group," says Burgess. It's a good
idea to protect skin from sun damage year-round. Use moisturizers with
an SPF of 15 during the day (especially if you're using a product with
AHAs).
For extended outdoor activity (outdoor sports or a day at the beach)
and sun exposure, moisturizer with SPF is not enough. Use a full-fledged
sunscreen that contains protection against UVA and UVB radiation, such
as Avon's Skin So Soft Sun So Soft in SPF 30 or Clarins Sun Care Cream-Gel
SPF 15.
6. Honor your eyes.
Skin around the eyes is prone to fine lines, dark circles or puffiness.
In some cases, circles are due to heredity or they're an indication
of illness or lack of sleep. In addition to getting more rest, you can
use certain products. Puffiness can be reduced with products that act
as a decongestant, but cucumber slices and green-tea bags work just
as well. What else works? Helena Rubinstein's Force C Eye Gel and Oil
of Olay's Refining Eye Gel. Soli Davis, an aesthetician at Helena Rubinstein
Beauty Gallery in New York City, recommends putting eye creams on the
bone around the eye, not directly under it, to keep the cream from getting
into the eye.
7. Keep an even tone.
Marks can be caused by everything from acne and mosquito bites to burns
and sun damage. They will fade on their own, but you can speed up the
process with a fader, sun protection and an AHA moisturizer. Look to
the ingredient hydroquinone, which acts by breaking up melanin formation.
In over-the-counter preparations, it comes in concentrations of three
percent or less; prescription drugs with hydroquinone are available
in higher concentrations. Teamed with alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids
(glycolic, kojic or salicyclic acids), hydroquinone can deeply penetrate
the skin. Fade gels should be applied directly to the area of discoloration.
Products that help: Peter Thomas Roth Potent Skin Lightening Gel Complex,
Exuviance Essential Skin Lightener Gel and Black Opal's Advance Dual
Complex Fade Gel. If the skin doesn't improve, consult a dermatologist.
8. Thou shalt visit the facialist.
Facials can stimulate blood circulation and the flow of oxygen to purge
skin of toxins imbedded in pores. For the best results, go monthly.
The aesthetician will help you choose from several types of facials,
including deep-cleansing, in which pores are unclogged through exfoliation,
steaming, extractions, massage and a mask; oxygen, in which the face
is cleaned, followed by a spray of nutrient-packed oxygen from a tank;
and glycolic acid, a strong exfoliating session and hydrating facial
to smooth and brighten skin tone.
9. Let a skin-care professional shepherd the way.
If you have severely sensitive skin or acne, or special concerns like
flesh moles, eczema or extremely large pores, consult a dermatologist.
10. Be committed to thyself.
Beautiful skin requires consistent effort and love. "Everything
affects my face--eating properly, taking vitamins, nourishing the cells,"
says noted cosmetologist and "skinkeeper" to sisters in the
know Arlene Hawkins of Arlene Hawkins Cosmetics in New York City. It's
all about drinking at least eight glasses of water a day to cleanse
your system and making sure your diet includes lots of fresh fruits,
vegetables and fiber to keep your body hydrated and rid of toxins. Supplement
your diet with vitamins, especially the antioxidants A, C, E and B complex.
Do not skimp on sleep. If you want great skin, it's also recommended
that you consult a dermatologist.